1½ pounds snapper filets, skinned (or grouper, flounder, halibut, Mahi Mahi)
2 tablespoons olive oil
¼ cup capers with brine
2 jalapeños, minced (remove the seeds and membranes to make it less spicy)
2 cups shredded red cabbage
¼ cup lime juice
1 tablespoon sugar
1½ teaspoons and 1 teaspoon salt, divided
2 teaspoons chili powder
Zest of 1 lime
⅔ cup sour cream
8 to 12 small corn tortillas
Chopped fresh cilantro for serving
1. Pat the fish dry and generously coat it with the olive oil. Let it come to room temperature while you prepare the rest of the recipe.
2. To make the tartar sauce, combine the capers and their brine with the jalapeños in a small bowl. Set aside to “marinate.” In a separate bowl, quick-pickle the cabbage by tossing it with the lime juice, sugar, and 1½ teaspoons salt. Let it sit.
3. Prepare half your grill with a moderately high flame, leaving the other half without a flame underneath. Brush the grate clean and let it get warm for at least 5 minutes.
4. Combine the remaining 1 teaspoon salt with the chili powder and lime zest, then rub it evenly over the fish. Grill over the fire until it’s cooked through and easily lifts from the grill, about 5 minutes per side. It’s ready when it’s flaky and opaque throughout; if the outside is cooking too quickly, move the fish to indirect heat on your grill, cover, and let cook for 2 minutes or so. Move it to your serving plate and coarsely shred it with a fork.
5. Finish the tartar sauce by stirring the sour cream into the jalapeño mixture. Toast the tortillas over direct heat just until they’re warm and slightly charred, about 20 seconds per side. Stack them on a plate beside the fish, cabbage, tartar sauce, and fresh cilantro. Have everyone serve themselves.